Carolyn Tillie's Ultimate California Wine Blog

Emilio's Terrace - 181

Emilio's Terrace is a very small vineyard located in Oakville between Harlan and Staglin. Pretty nice neighborhood, huh? I had the opportunity to taste the wine at the latest Copia had another one of its lovely in-house tastings which frequently gives me access to wineries with no public facilities or tasting rooms. That is the case with Emilio's Terrace, which is owned by Phil Schlein. The wine is made by Joe Cafaro and only 400 to 700 cases are ever made each year. The certified organic vineyard are 650 feet up above Robert Mondavi's To-Kolan vineyard. While they grow both Cabernet and Merlot, A large portion of their Merlot is reserved and blended with some purchased grapes for a second label, by-the-glass restaurant wine. The good stuff is kept for the Emilio's Terrace.

2002 Emilio's Terrace Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve - 96% Cabernet Sauvignon and 4% Merlot. Dark purple in color, this intensely complex wine shows black fruit aromas of currant and black cherry. Hints of vanilla waft near the back of the nose. The mouth entry is rich and defined, showing layers of supple spice, brambleberry, and hefty tannins. Absolutely spendid. $50.00

Emilio's Terrace ~ P.O. Box 88 ~ Oakville ~ CA ~ 94562 ~ 707-257-6761
No tastings available.

Hagafen Cellars - 179

In Hebrew, hagafen means "the vine." And I was fascinated to learn that a premiere kosher winery exists in Napa! When people think of kosher in regards to wine, one immediately thinks of Manischevitz, but Hagafen Cellars is Napa-based, certified kosher, and astonishingly great! I am not going to give a whole analysis of how kosher wines are made. There are enough websites that will do that other than to tell you that the wine is briefly flash pasteurized at 185 degrees and blessed by an in-house Rabbi.

Located just off the Silverado Trail, Hagafen is owned by Ernie and Irit Weir and by all accounts, they are very hands-on owners with Ernie managing the vineyards AND making the wine. The day of my visit, a large group was expected for lunch and I was told how Irit had prepared an entire Turkish-inspired meal.

Although I did not get an opportunity to meet the Weirs, I was introduced to She Who Really Runs Everything: Lola. We all know that winery cats are true power behind the thrones and Lola certainly held court as stately queen of the tasting room. Another interesting aspect of the tasting room (one you MUST ask about), are the frogs...

The tasting room is small and elegant, surrounded with cases of wine and accolades on the walls. You can hear the high-pitched chirps echoing around you. They are there, you see... Small little frogs who like to hang out in the tasting room, mostly behind the framed pictures of the family, articles, and well-deserved ratings. It is charming and disconcerting at the same time and I'm surprised Lola hasn't had her way with them...

2001 Brut Cuvée Sparkling Wine - Yep, a sparkling kosher! Made from Carneros grapes which are purchased, a mere 500 cases are made. 78% Pinot Noir and 22% Chardonnay, this wine is creamy and nutty with hints of toast and ripe white fruit. $30.00

2004 Chardonnay - 100% malo displays a light, creamy floral nose. Initial flavors are of yellow peach and apricot with a light, toasty oak finish. $18.00

2004 Pinot Noir - 8 month in French oak. Bright cherry and raspberry aromas mirrored in the crisp mouth entry. Engaging terroir is warm and rich in this medium-bodied wine with a soft, mineral finish. $32.00

2002 Merlot - Warm, dark cherry bouquet. Easy spiced tobacco entry with hints of chocolate. Developed and easy to drink. $27.00

2000 Merlot - With 10% Cabernet. Some funky earth terroir blows off to display older brambleberry tones. Medium-bodied with integrated tannins. $39.00

1998 Merlot - Bricky-edged color showing age and earth and leather and a tease of the fruit from days gone by. Probably has six month to a year left in it and great fun to find an affordable library wine! $49.00

2001 Syrah - Terroir-driven earthy wine with a touch of brambleberry. Merlot-like nose and an easy, berry fruit mouth entry that brightens upon opening. Medium bodied makes this another easy-to-drink wine. $27.00

2000 Syrah - Similar to the '01 with a bit more earth and age. $39.00

2002 Cabernet Sauvignon - With 12% Cabernet Franc. Earthy tobacco and leather nose. Beefy, dark fruit textured flavors with perfectly balanced tannins. $40.00

2004 White Riesling - At 3.9% residual sugar. Engaging nose of white flowers and a hint of bright spice and freshly cut grass. Clean tastes of white fruit; white pear, white grapes, and white melon. Not syrupy or sticky, but crisp and fun. $19.00

Hagafen Cellars ~ 4160 Silverado Trail ~ Napa ~ Ca ~ 94558 ~ 707-252-0791
$5.00 for four current release whites
$5.00 for four current release reds
$10.00 for four library wines

Venge Vineyards - 172

Nils Venge has quite a reputation in both the Napa valley and in the wine world in general. Besides being a consulting winemaker for Robert Keenan and Plumpjack Winery. Nils was also instrumental in the establishment Saddleback Cellars, but it was with his son, Kirk, that the family name finally ended up on a label of its own, Venge Vineyards. His renown came while working at Groth where he became the first American winemaker to receive an illusive 100 points from noted wine critic Robert Parker for his 1985 Groth Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon.

Venge's namesake wine is made at what is historically known as the Rossini Ranch. Built by Swiss Italian immigrant Carlo Rossini in 1891, like many other wineries of its age, it suffered the Prohibition shut-down syndrome. It is located on the base of Howell Mountain, several miles back a long and twisty road that one may believe goes no where. Keep going...

Nils and family have completely renovated the building. The top floor is the home of the tasting room. Bright with natural light from vaulted ceilings, it has yet to see an abundance of decorations or knick-knacks. The tasting is not confined to this room, but includes a tour of the entire facilities. The first wine or two is tasted at the bar. From there, guests are led down into the belly of the building.

A table has been set up in the cellar area where most of the red wines are tasted. It is gratifying to see a working winery from the inside and be able to enjoy its bounty. While the tasting is appointment-only, I stumbled in one weekday afternoon and was still granted courteous hospitality and a tasting.

2004 Bianco Spettro - 55% Chardonnay, 38% Sauvignon Blanc, 7% Marsanne. White floral nose that is rich with a hint of sweetness. Smooth mouth entry that has a nice oily sensation. Clean feeling with yellow peach tones. $25.00

2002 Sangiovese – The first impression faked me out a bit with a Cabernet-like blackberry nose. A swirl opened it to warm, sweet cinnamon and cherry aromas. Sweet entry expands to display ripe red fruit. There was an underlying minerality which fills out, produces intense balanced flavors, and culminates in a spicy finish. $30.00.

2003 Scout's Honor - 70% Zinfandel, 15% Petite Sirah, 15% Charbono. The story behind the name of this wine is a remembrance to Kirk's beloved yellow lab, Scout. I must admit this is a hard wine to describe because there is so much going on; a core of smoke, layers of sweetness and spice, and effusive brambleberry. $35.00

2001 Merlot - Redolent with valley terroir. Rich with earthy tones, tobacco, leather, and dark berry. The flavors are rich and complex that finishes with some dusty herbal notes. $40.00

2000 Cabernet Sauvignon - Overwhelming nose of green bell pepper, jalapeño, and eucalyptus. Smooth entry that blossoms to show red cherry and a dark black anise. $95.00

Venge Vineyards ~ 424 Crystal Springs Road ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94573 ~ 707-967-1008

Napa Cellars - 157

I have long admired the Napa Cellars' logo. The clean pen-and-ink drawing of an up-turned hand, scrolled elegantly upward. It is the type of script that makes me believe it actually says something, but I'm not brilliant enough to see it. What is the orb floating above the hand? A grape? The world? Is the hand waiting to grasp what is plunging downwards towards the grasp or has the hand just flung the sphere into the air? Questions like this plague me, I'm afraid and I doubt I will ever have a definitive answer. But I like it, regardless.

Napa Cellars is one of the first wineries that greets visitors entering the Napa Valley via Highway 29. The building is a Bucky-Fuller geodesic dome (albeit a slightly squashed, low-slung dome). It is one of the rare down-valley wineries boasting a public picnic facility -- something of a rarity I have come to learn.

Despite the impression that the building is mildly squat, the interior tasting room is surprisingly open with its vaulted ceilings and sky lights. During my visit, some first time wine tasters were visiting from out-of-state and the pouring staff were extremely helpful in the instruction of Wine-Tasting 101. This is actually rather refreshing as I have witnessed far too many occasions where those just starting out were treated with more condescension instead of congeniality. Easy to drink and affordable, Napa Cellars is a great place to begin when first visiting the Napa Valley.

2004 Vin Gris - An odd rosé blend of Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. Pale, pink color with fresh berry aromas that is only a tad sweet on entry. Surprisingly integrated and not too tangy. Fresh finish. $14.95

2002 Napa Valley Zinfandel - From south St. Helena, this produces a rich, soft nose of dark spice including nutmeg and clove that just barely hides a hint of black pepper. Chocolate entry sweetens in the mid-palate to a long, dry finish of cocoa. $19.75

2002 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon - Toasty nose with a touch of green bell pepper. Dry entry produces cedar and dark berry. The finish was a tad thin. $25.75

2001 Napa Valley Syrah - From a north Napa vineyard, only 500 cases were produced. Sweet licorice and blackberry liqueur show richness and complexity. Chewy mouth entry expands with dark fruit and vanilla. $32.50

2001 Late Harvest Zinfandel - Full bodied and rich, a medium amount of herbs keeps it from being overly sweet. Integrated fruit and cocoa. $29.75

Napa Cellars ~ 7481 St. Helena Highway ~ Oakville ~ CA ~ 94562 ~ 707-944-2565

Diamond Oaks - 155

Diamond Oaks is a relative new-comer to the Napa Valley wine scene. Located on the edge of a mountain up the Oakville Grade, the building facilities was once better known as Vichon (a Mondavi project) - and, for a short while, La Famiglia (another Mondavi project).

Indian-born Dinesh Maniar is the current proprietor. Having already acquired numerous Napa and Sonoma vineyards, the acquisition of this property from the Mondavis was a jewel in his wine-bedecked crown. By all accounts from those who work with him, Maniar is an introspective, unassuming gentleman who has made some very impressive improvements to the property.

The tasting room, when it was La Famiglia, was known for the hand-painted wall-sized mural. That was the only aspect of the original hospitality area that Maniar retained. The building was slightly retrofitted to accommodate much-needed windows for light, new marble floors, and elegant lighting fixtures (selected by Dinesh himself).

Of special note is the picturesque picture area. Undoubtedly one of the most stunning views of the valley, for a mere $30.00, the winery will reserve a table, provide a bottle of wine and glasses, and place a checkered tablecloth to await your culinary delight. Corkpulls are strategically dangled from the trees, just in case you forget...

2001 Chalk Hill Chardonnay - Maniar owns 95 acres of Chalk Hill vineyards. This 100% malo chard is fruit forward, with intense lemon and tropical fruit aromas. Initial flavors are fruit forward with lemon and a hint of cream. The finish shows nuts, oak, and a touch of butter. $29.00

2001 Reserve Carneros Chardonnay - Another 100% malo, but this one has seen 100% French oak. Rich, full, layered offering with a tropical bouquet surrounding a core of butterscotch. Flavors dance between lemon meringue and clean pear. $39.00

2003 Carneros Pinot Noir - Simple aromas of cherry, licorice, and earth in the nose. Bigger fruit flavors explodes in the mouth, counter to the thinner bouquet. Tight and young, earth and licorice dominate. $19.00

2002 Silver Carneros Merlot - Deep tones of green olive, rich earth, and some cherry. Richer fruit flavors of solid dark fruit, a mid-palate of toast, finishes with a tease of eucalyptus. $17.00

2002 Hira Ranch Merlot, Carneros - 70% French oak, 20% of that is new - the other 30% is American oak. Dark chocolate and tobacco qualities in the nose. Initially soft and supple upon entry, dark berry and earthy qualities become rich and complex on the finish. $29.00

2003 Cabernet, Alexander Valley - (Wine Club only). A pre-release tasting is still a bit green with tons of rustic herbs and cherry. Gobs of chocolate mint on the nice, lingering finish. No price.

Diamond Oaks ~ 1595 Oakville Grade ~ Oakville ~ CA ~ 94562 ~ 707-948-3000

Turnbull - 102

I feel a tad embarrassed about my visit to Turnbull. It was a hot afternoon and I sort of just dashed in and dashed out. I glanced at the walls, but not long enough to realize they are another in the line of wineries with art exhibits, in this case, photographs of famous 20th century icons.

The tasting room was a relatively standard offering; bar, tables with goodies to buy, and photographs on the walls. It took some time to muscle in to taste, but once there the staff were friendly and informative. Apparently there are a number of functions that occur on Saturdays, including some several cooking classes like pizza-making or grilling. I wish I had known about that before my visit...

I did admire an adjacent arbor where several folks could wander and relax while tasting their wine. Many tasting rooms work as a factory, trying to get their guests in and out as quickly as possible. The mere existence of such a spot of serenity sounds volumes of goodwill in an otherwise hurried industry.

2003 Sauvignon Blanc - 97% Sauvignon Blanc, 3% Viogner that never saw oak. Slightly effervescent, lemony entry that was almost sweet. Crisp and tangy in the mid-palate, a sweetish ending seemed simple. $15.00

2003 Old Bull Red - A blend of 61% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Syrah, 9% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, 3% Tempranillo, 2% Petite Sirah, 2% Sangiovese, and 2% Petit Verdot. Clear, bright garnet in color, this showed dark berry aromas layered with hints of anise and mint. The entry was just as fruity with cocoa and coffee in the mid-palate and dustier on the finish. $20.00

2002 Cabernet Sauvignon - 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Cabernet Franc, 3% Syrah, 2% Merlot, and 1% Petit Verdot. Aromas of dried herbs and smoky cedar predominate the nose. Some fruit flavors on the entry which is dry in the mid-palate but fills out and warms on the finish. $40.00

2002 Red Wine "Black Label" - 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Cabernet Franc, 8% Malbec, 6% Petit Verdot, and 4% Merlot. Dark, inky purple shows full aromas of black plum, blackberry, and dried herbs. Integrated and smooth, the flavors mirror the aromas with a balanced, even finish. $75.00

Turnbull ~ 8210 St. Helena Highway ~ Oakville ~ CA ~ 94562 ~ 707-963-5839

 

Mondavi - 77

It is true -- I have had folks ask me when I would visit the Vatican of the Napa Valley. For what other analogy can be made for Robert Mondavi? Despite the recent upheaval in his corporation, the man himself can only be considered the reigning pope of the California wine industry.

Besides the heritage and history that Robert himself lends to the estate, many come to Mondavi to be introduced to Napa and the production of winemaking. No less than seven different types of tours are available, from the basics of winemaking, to food and wine pairing, to the (I'm told) romantic twilight tour which only takes place at 6:00 on Friday evenings. I decided to forgo any tours for my first visit, which also precluded me from tasting any of the reserve wines on this occasion. It was a quick stop only, intended to look around and taste quickly the standard offerings of the facility.

There are three different tasting rooms and the most public, Le Marche, is a pretty standard one as far as the valley is concerned including gift items and apparel. Surprisingly, the tasting bar is relatively small and each taste is charged for individually at $5.00 for each two-ounce pour. Guests are not allowed to "run up tabs" so if you want to taste through their entire offering (six on the day I was there), each guest would have to pony up $30. Still, if visiting for the first time or wanting to experience all aspects of a winery, Mondavi is a great place to start.

2002 Sauvignon Blanc, Stags Leap District - 100% stainless steel. Surprisingly creamy aroma with integrated tropical fruits. A hint of the classic cat pea appeared in the back of the sinuses and anticipated the sharp mouth entry. The initial acidity quickly subsided and blossomed to a brighter, engaging offering with a long, spiky finish. $23.00

2002 Fumé Blanc - Here's a story not many people know: Robert Mondavi "invented" the Fumé Blanc in 1962.  What he really did was take the Sauvignon Blanc (which wasn't very fashionable at the time), and gave it a French twist by hijacking part of the name from the Pouilley-Fumé, putting it in oak, and adding a little Semillon. This current offering was a harsh follow-up to the Sauvignon Blanc I had just tasted, but quickly warmed in showing lemon meringue on the nose (a distinct combination of lively citrus with layered cream notes). The finish was tighter than I would have liked. $17.00

2002 Chardonnay - Seven months is 20% new French oak (Mondavi ONLY ever used French oak!). This wine was very clear with upfront aromas of classic butter and hints of tropical fruit. The initial taste is robust but thins out too quickly with a mineral finish. $18.00

2002 Pinot Noir - A tad murky in its garnet color, the raspberry bouquet revealed itself beside other fresh berries. Mineral tones dominated in the mid-palate and gave way to a thin, metallic finish. $21.00

2002 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon - Warm dark berry aromas couple with cassis and cocoa. A soft, Merlot-like entry has a bright flavor with even acidity. Quite drinkable. $25.00

2002 Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon - Classic Oakville dustiness shows in aromas and flavor. Dried herbs and some twigs predominate in the nose. A bit tannic on the entry, the very dry mid-palate leaves a mineral ending. $40.00

2004 Muscato d'Oro - With 10% residual sugar this simple dessert wine at 8% alcohol could prove way too easy to drink. Sweet orange blossom and honey suckle aromas do not anticipate the slightly effervescent entry. Sweet and orange and floral in tones, an easy summer dessert. $20.00

Robert Mondavi Winery ~ Highway 29 ~ Oakville ~ CA ~ 94562 ~ 1-888-RMONDAVI (1-888-766-6328)

Flora Springs - 62

Flora Springs winery is located on Highway 29 and is almost easy to miss for while most winery tasting rooms on the main drag have large, stand-alone facilities, Flora Springs sits nestled amongst a cluster of buildings that shares a parking lot with Calistoga Roastery (a coffee house) and Dean & Deluca. A vine-covered building might almost be lost, but is well worth looking for!

This is another one of those wineries that I have placed in a number of categories for while the physical tasting room lies in St. Helena appellation, the vineyards for the wines are located in St. Helena, Rutherford, and Oakville appellations.

The tasting room itself is large and inviting with an center-staged tasting bar-in-the-round placed dead center in the room. This makes for lots of comfortable space as well as a generally warm and inviting atmosphere. There are also a number of literary and cinematic allusions which I greatly admire; the Lavender Hill Vineyards for their Pinot was named after the Alec Guinness movie The Lavender Hill Mob, a one-sheet is located on an adjacent wall, and the Toad Hall Cellars Club references the Wind in the Willows, the owner's wife's favorite book (there are a number of toad references around the tasting room as well).

A note about the walls - along with movie posters, they are covered with these amazing caricatures of the family set next to photographs of the person so depicted. Also of note is a wine list far more extensive than my tasting allowed; additional wines include several Pinots, a variety of vineyard-specific Cabernets, a Sangiovese.

2002 Soliloquey - I'm not sure why this wine has a special name. It is a 100% Sauvignon Blanc and maybe it is because it comes from the Sauvignon Musque clone. It shows the classic green apple/grass combination in its bouquet that is perfumey and bright which enters the mouth with a warm, creamy sensation that finishes crisp and engaging. $18.00

2003 Barrel-Fermented Chardonnay - I was surprised to be told this Chardonnay saw no malo for there is a hint of butter and vanilla on the nose. The entry is lively with tropical fruits dominated with pineapple tones that is a touch sweet with balance and body. $22.00

2001 Pinot, Lavender Hill Vineyards - Oxidized.

2000 Poggio Del Papa - 75% Sangiovese, 16% Merlot, and 9% Cabernet Sauvignon. An interesting blend that shows the dark, plummy, jammy fruit of the Merlot with cherry aromas and some oak in the beginning. The Sangiovese brings acidity to the forefront, but in an even, pleasing fashion. $30.00

2002 Napa Valley Merlot - A lighter, softer Merlot than I have been drinking lately. Oak and fruit are balanced in the aroma, with neither overpowering the other. Some mineral tones in the mid-palate, it demonstrates a fresh, cherry finish that is easy going down. $24.00

2001 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon - 100% Cabernet immediately shows dark, chocolate-covered cherry aromas with hints of cedar and oak. The cherry is coupled with elements of cassis in the mouth with some mineral qualities mid-way. A bit dry on the finish is a light touch. $30.00

2001 Trilogy - 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc, and 3% Malbec. The faintest of green bell pepper under incredibly plummy, dark fruit aromas. Balanced tannins reveals a touch of minerality in the mid-palate but blossoms in a finish that reveals cherry. $60.00

Flora Springs ~ 677 S. St. Helena Highway ~ St. Helena ~ 800-913-1118

Miner Family Winery - 48

Miner is a relative new-comer on the Napa wine-making page, having only been established in 1998. But in those few short years, Dave and Emily Miner, along with Dave's parents Ed and Norma, have built an amazing business. There is an impressive building as wine-making facilities and guest center but there is also very impressive wine.

2002 Chardonnay, Wild Yeast - Full malo, this wine presents a dark, yeasty bouquet underneath which lies a hint of stone fruit. Warm, and buttery on the tongue, there is a surprising freshness with a bright finish. $50.00

2003 Pinot Noir, Rosella's Vineyard - Over-the-top aromas of wild strawberry and raspberry. Definite WOW factor in the nose which subsides a bit to present a layer of cedar. The soft entry produces balanced berry flavors with a touch of dark spice and a bright, tangy finish. $50.00

2001 Syrah, Napa Valley - From three different vineyards, the aromas immediately presented include candied red hots with layers of dried flowers. The dry mid-palate produces some meaty textures and finishes with dark, spicy notes. $28.00

2001 Merlot, Oakville - Berry jam almost overwhelms. Full and robust, there is a smokiness when it enters the mouth. A spicy cherry finish. $28.00

2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville - Intense dark berry with immense amounts of cassis and spicey aromas. A hint of coffee anticipates the coffee and berry flavors upon entry. Rather tight with a balanced, mineral ending that is dark and luscious and does not seem to end. $50.00

Miner Family Vineyards ~ 7850 Silverado Trail ~ Oakville ~ CA 94562 ~ 800-366-WINE

Plumpjack Winery - 24

There are a number of wineries in the heart of the Napa Valley which are are neither on Highway 29 nor on the Silverado Trail. These are hidden off side roads which connect the main two arteries. Plumpjack is just off the Trail and with their, artistic vaulted sign, a winery that must be searched for. The entrance is up a long, thin road and the facilities are beautifully ensconced among olive trees. Here in the Northern California, the Plumpjack name holds quite a reputation. Besides the winery itself, they also have a chain of restaurants and have interest in a number of local inns.

The tasting room itself also has an artistic flair. Upon walking towards the building, I admired the color scheme of the building itself as well as the circular frame around a tree bench. The colors are contemporary and inviting and the landscaping provides a very warm reception. It was only a small anticipation of what was to await me inside.

The interior of the tasting room is warm, sage with fabulously modern touches in its decorations. The sage color continues throughout and makes for a rather dark room, but fun in nature. The contemporary artistic motifs which bedeck the tasting bar, wall, and ceiling are fun and whimsical. Sadly for me, the day I visited they were sold out of their Syrah and Cuvee, only leaving two wines to taste -- and one which was a tad too young:

2002 Plumpjack Reserve Chardonnay, St. Helena - No malo, but surprisingly rich. Tropical fruit aromas of pineapple and mango with a whisper of orange peel. Complex, layered mouth feel which finishes in vanilla and a touch of coconut. $42.00

2002 Plumpjack Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville - Tremendous plummy bouquet diminishes to green pepper. Tight tannins somewhat hid the black cherry in the mid-palate. The sharp, acidic finish confirmed that  the wine had just been released and the bottle just opened. Would benefit from aging and decanting. $62.00

Plumpjack Winery ~ 620 Oakville Cross Road ~ Oakville ~ CA ~ 94562 ~ 707-945-1220

Cardinale - 7

Cardinale is a large, imposing-looking structure which sits atop a hill on Highway 29 in the Oakville district. While they are located within an appellation that is considered 'valley floor' fruit, the vineyards from which the grapes are pulled from their wine include Keyes Vineyard on Howell Mountain and Veeder Peak Vineyard on Mt. Veeder.

Entering the establishment is awe-inspiring as the view of the building is in sight during the entire ascent. It is a stunning edifice which somehwat peers down upon the whole valley. The reception area and tasting room are expansive, inviting, and very well lit.

I especially admired the modern art-like sculpture opposite the tasting bar -- core dirt samples of their various vineyards. It was not only representational and educational, but a unique and stylistic way to add minimal art to the room. Immediately adjacent to the tasting area is a private banquet room which can be used for small party tastings for formal dinner parties. Immediately beyond that room lies the balcony from which a stunning view of the vineyards and the buildings which make up the wine-making facilities.

Like many high-end wineries, Cardinale is one that does not over extend themselves with multitudes of varietals -- cabernets are the primary focus but there was a lovely merlot available the day of my visit as well:

2001 Keyes Howell Mountain Merlot - Dark, inky purple in color. Rich chocolate and full herbal aromas. More chocolate and dark, elegant fruit with a thick, long finish. Opulent and jammy. This is a wine I would love to lay down for five to eight years.

2001 Cardinale Cabernet - A rather complicated line-up: 28% Mt. Veeder (Napa), 20% Oakville (Napa), 18% Howell Mountain (Napa), 14% Knights Valley (Sonoma), 13% Alexander Valley (Sonoma), and 7% Atlas Peek (Napa); 75% Cabernet and 25% Merlot. Again, a bit of herb on the nose with a hint of oak. Vanilla and dark berry in the middle palate with some chewy tannins. Quite nice.

Cardinale Estate ~ 7600 St. Helena Highway (Highway 29) ~ Oakville ~ CA ~ 94558 ~ 707-948-2643

Silver Oak - 5

Silver Oak has had a well-established reputation for phenomenal Cabernet. Several years ago, I was fortunate to taste the 1974 Silver Oak Mountain Coast (I'll go ahead and add those tasting notes at the bottom, just because I can). With that reputation, I was greatly looking forward to my visit to Silver Oak, but which one to go to? As you can see, I have categorized this listing under both Napa, Oakville (where one tasting room and location lies) and Sonoma, Alexander Valley, where a separate set of buildings exist. It was to the Oakville establishment that I arrived for my sojourn. The distinction is important as they produce Cabernets from both appellations.

Known for their logo Water Tower, a building which one will see scattered all over the valley, I was not too surprised to see the actual model sitting close by the working structures of the winery. The entrance of the tasting room is impressive and elegant. I especially like the stained glass window which lies above the large doorways. I didn't get a full tour of the production facilities and can only attest to that which I witnessed from the outside.

Also, immediately to the left of the building is a great bronze sculpture of a man pushing a wheelbarrow. Contained within the wheelbarrow is a planting of fresh flowers and I imagine the foliage changes with the seasons. This is a relatively low-production winery, like Quintessa, where Cabernet is king and there is not much reason to bother with multiple varietals. So on to my tasting:

From 1974 Silver Oak Mountain Coast - Light ruby with bridge-red edges. Nose of hazelnuts, cherries, chocolate, and dill. Good body, long finish with return of red fruit character. A truly splendid wine.

And from today; 2000 Silver Oak Napa Cabernet - Surprisingly, from a blend of twelve different vineyards, 79% Cabernet, 11% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot. While I got a little cassis and vanilla on the nose, the wine paled a bit in my mouth in an almost Pinot-like concentration. Slightly thin.

2000 Silver Oak Alexander Valley - I perceived quite a bit of brett on the nose. It was very oaky and a second whiff produced considerable minerals in the aroma. Again, much more pale in the mouth than I had expected this wine to be. I think it might actually ripen in the bottle and I wouldn't mind trying one in eight or ten years.

There was also a Meyer NV Port. It was a tad cloudy and a bit overly sweet and syrupy for my tastes.

Silver Oak ~ 915 Oakville Crossroad ~ Oakville, CA 94562 ~ 800-273-8809

Nickel & Nickel - 2

From their website, "founded by the partners of Far Niente in 1997, produced its first wines that same year, and opened the winery in July 2003," Nickel & Nickel is a treat on Highway 29 which has to be sought-out due to its appointment-only status. This is unusual for wineries on the 29, which tend to be more tourist-oriented, full of tschotschkies and t-shirts. Unassuming from the entrance as all you see are a collection of charming buildings dating back to the turn of the last century and a fully restored Model T truck parked under the white-picket fence of a sign.

Upon entering the reception hall, I was immediately escorted to a charming room, decorated with various country French antiques, an engaging fireplace, and stunning dried wildflower displays and framed woodcuts of wine-making apparatus. While relaxing and waiting for the other guests, I was given a 1999 Chardonnay which was (guess what?) oaky and buttery...

The tour commences with a walk around the grounds. There are several old, fully restored buildings. Within the Gleason Barn are the administrative offices, wine laboratory, and yet another antique horse-drawn carriage. I'm sure this is due to Gil Nickel's love of antique vehicles which are well known at Far Niente.  We walked from the barn area to the wine-making facilities which are extremely impressive.

After the jaunt, we returned to the Sullenger House for tasting. Even though their book of wine is expansive enough to include Zinfandel, Merlot, Chardonnay, Syrah, and Cabernet, I was pleased that the tasting before me was just Cabernet. I am unsure if they every include those other varietals in the tastings or not. As the key of Nickel & Nickel wines are entirely vineyard-specific offerings, it can provide extremely enlightening to be able to taste what a single grape can do depending on where it is grown.

2001 Tench - Oakville; Chocolatey and downright merlot-like with a deep, plummy nose. Round and full in the mouth with nary a hint of minerality.

2001 Dragonfly - St. Helena; I might have thought this a Stag's Leap district wine with its earthy aroma. Overwhelming scent of Band-Aid and medicinal qualities which made for a mineral taste in the mouth.

2001 Carpenter - Napa/Coombsville; Bigger tannins than the Dragonfly and a tad minerally and thin. I could sense the rocky soil as the finish provided significant mint.

2001 Rock Cairn - Oakville; While the Tench was merlot-like, the Rock Cairn was zin-like with a burn of alcohol which gave way to medicinal eucalyptus which eventually betrayed the blackberry in the mouth.

2001 Vogt - Howell Mountain; I was given the Howell Mountain as an extra taste as they knew I was from a Howell Mountain winery myself. Classic notes with deep, purply fruit and elegant spice.

Nickel & Nickel ~ 8164 St. Helena Highway ~ Oakville ~ CA ~ 94562 ~ 707-967-9600